INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics are substances that are used to enhance the scent and appearance of the human body. The word cosmetics is derived from the Greek word “kosmetikos” which means strength, organization and skill in adornment.¹ In ancient times about 3000 BC people often hunted animals by decorating with different colors and often defended themselves by dyeing their bodies to create fear in animals and other enemies.² Cosmetics were discovered long ago and their origin was associated with many aspects such as animal hunting, superstition, religious truth and civil strife and later related medical and medical reasons as well.³ Cosmetics that combine materials and products are used to enhance and change the appearance of the whole body.

They are made for use on the face, hair and body. Herbal cosmetics are cosmetics where one or more herbal ingredients are used to form a 1.2 base. Phytochemicals are substances found in cosmetic products. This affects the functions of the skin and provides the necessary nutrients for shiny skin or healthy hair.³ Lipstick is a cosmetic product that is widely used in cosmetics. In dyeing, oils, waxes, and emollients that provide color, texture, and protection to the lips form many features. Many colors and types of lipstick are available. Other types of lipstick are also lip balms, color enhancement and hydration.⁴ Now the demand for day cosmetics in the world market is growing and they are inevitable natural gifts. There are a variety of herbal cosmetic products to meet the needs of women for cosmetic purposes. Contrary to many people's beliefs, cosmetics are safe for human health.⁵ A good lipstick should define features and be accepted by consumers, such as proper texture and antioxidant properties. Oils, oils, emollients and colorants during the definition of components allow for beautiful lipstick properties. The shape, the melting point and the hardness of the lipstick are the main features that are changed by changing the proportions of the components used in the manufacture.⁶ Pigments (colors) are the components that play an important role in the production of lipstick as they create the amount of beauty of the lipstick. Colorants can come from artificial and natural sources. Synthetic colors are chemically produced. In some cases they can be carcinogenic and fatal. This degree therefore directs the use of natural color in making lipstick. Natural colors are extracted from natural sources such as plants, insects, algae.⁷

Herbal Cosmetics:

The use of cosmetics was widespread in pre-Christian Greek times when historians spoke of the use of cosmetics in cosmetics and perfumes. Queen Cleopatra is the final name in cosmetics and cosmetics and has used aloe vera as a skin care product. Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79) wrote an interesting article on perfumes and colognes in his book “Natural History”. Roman physician Cornelius Celsus (B.C. 7 - A.D. 53.) discussed the condition of the skin cleanser during the 16th century. Queen Elizabeth encouraged women to plant gardens and help them to prepare powders, bags and scented watches (flowers with other fragrant substances)^6,9,14. The use of ground orris as an ingredient in face powder, red ocher or vermilion as rouge was common during Elizabeth's reign. The removal of Brazilian sandal or wood was considered to be the most innovative and ingenious. The bumps were treated by covering them for an hour with powdered sulfur and turpentine and then smeared with fresh butter¹¹. Gold red hair, red and yellow hair became fashionable and affected by soaking the hair first with a warm alum solution and then adding to a decoction of rhubarb, turmeric and bark of burberry. A large number of cosmetic products are made based on herbs and herbal oils. Indian women have long used herbs such as sandal wood and turmeric in skin care and henna to color hair. In India the use of cosmetics comes from the earliest period of medical and cosmetic art in India. Items such as aloe, costus, frankincense, lac, myrrh, camphor, musk, saffron, use of rose water such as attar and sandal wood were common in the beginning¹⁵. Ingredients used as a spice are cassia and nutmeg. Saffron, alkanet, agar, green chlorophyll from nettle and indigo plants were used in body decoration¹⁶. The use of betel leaves to darken the lips, vermilion and other colors with wax in their caste makeup, almond paste all over the body instead of gift and the use of perfumes and aromatics in all religious and social times has been very common since ancient times^17-18. Many of the world's traditional medicine processes have made significant contributions to the development of herbal cosmetics. Broken lips that damage the beauty of the face can be cured by dipping the dough into Aegle Marmelos enamel milk. Skin integrity can be achieved by preparing a paste with Sessamum Indicum, Pongamia Pinnata, Berberis Aristata, Saussura Lappa. Dandruff was removed by soaking Papaver Somniferum in milk¹⁹. A face pack containing Lens Culinaris mixed with honey was used to soften the face²⁰. The bumps are removed from the face by applying concrete made of Coriandrum Sativum, Acorus Calamus and Saussurea Lappa^21-23. A deodourant powder consisting of a powder prepared from Mangifera Indica, Punica Granatum and a sweet odor to remove bad odors^24-26. The presence of hair on the arms, legs, face and public area can be removed by applying a mixture that includes Emblica Officinalis, Piper Longum, Euphorbia Nivulia in the desired area and the hair will fall out. off from the place¹⁹. Eclipta Alba Juice, Iron Oxide, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Bellerica, Phyllanthus Emblica oiled can be used to darken hair and relieve dandruff^24-26. To make the breast enlarge the bustline and make it firmer and more flexible, a powder mixture consisting of Withania Somnifera, Scidapsus Officinalis, Saussurea Lappa and Acorus Calamus is added to buttermilk butter and breast massage^19-27. In ancient times the written information of ayurveda such as charaka samhitha and varnya k beat described the use of herbs in obtaining a radiant complexion. The herbs used were chandana, nagkeshara, padmak, khus, yashtimadhu, manjistha, sariva, payasya, seta (sweta durva) and lata (shyama durva). These ayurvedic herbs are used to cleanse the blood and remove vitiated doshas (vata, pitta, kapha) from the body as they cause skin disorders and other ailments. The herbs mentioned in khushthagna mahakashaya work well for the skin, including khadira, abhaya, malaki, haridra, bhallataka, saptaparna, karavira, vidanga and jati. Some of the natural products used in ancient times include, the use of indigo and raktachandan as bindi/tika, madder root to beautify the lips and cheeks, flower shoes darken and strengthen hair color, aloe as skin protection, chandan, vetiver and haldi as a face. packets. The use of ayurvedic herbs increases the amount of cosmetics in the products. Ayurveda is well-known for its long-lasting cure for diseases and it is evident in the current market that herbal cosmetics product will be successful in capturing the market. Knowledge about the structure and function of the skin and its appendages as well as knowledge of natural or herbal remedies or remedies will help to increase the value of herbal cosmetics. The skin has a natural ability to repair further to maintain its normal function. In adolescence the most common skin problem is oily skin and acne and in old age the skin will dry out. In order to have better skin, it is important to understand how our skin works and take the right steps to keep it in good condition. The skin is divided into 4 groups and in each class the appropriate ingredients should be used to maintain its natural function^28-29.

Benefits of Herbal Cosmetics over Synthetic:

Herbal cosmetics are a modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion. These agents are gaining popularity as today most women prefer natural products over chemicals to take care of themselves in order to enhance their beauty as these products provide the body with nutrients and improve health and provide satisfaction as it has no synthetic chemicals and has relatively few side effects. compared to synthetic cosmetics³⁰.The following are some of the benefits of using natural cosmetics that make them a better choice than synthetic:

Natural Products:

The name itself suggests that herbal cosmetics are natural and do not contain all the harmful synthetic chemicals that may appear to be toxic to the skin. Instead of traditional synthetic products various plant parts and plant extracts are used in these products, e.g. Aloe vera gel and coconut oil. They also contain natural nutrients such as Vitamin E that keep skin healthy, radiant and beautiful. For example, Aloe vera is a generic herb that is part of the Liliaceae family and is found naturally and easily³¹. There are a growing number of consumers who are concerned about ingredients such as synthetic chemicals, mineral oils that require more natural products with traceable and natural ingredients, free of harmful chemicals and emphasizing the characteristics of botanicals³².

Safe to Use:

Compared with other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safer to use. They are hypo-allergenic and have been tested and proven by dermatologists that they are safe to use anytime, anywhere. Made with natural ingredients, people need not worry about getting a rash or feeling itchy. Example - BHA (Butylated Hydroxy-anisole) and BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) are closely related to synthetic antioxidants and are used as preservatives in lipsticks and moisturizers³⁴.BHA and BHT can cause allergies. of the skin³³. The International Agency for Research on Cancer lists BHA as a human carcinogen³⁵. Herbal cosmetics contain natural antioxidants such as Vitamin C³⁶.

Compatible with all skin types:

Natural cosmetics are suitable for all skin types. Whether it is dark or fair, you will find natural makeup as a foundation, eye shadow, and lipstick that are appropriate regardless of your skin tone. Women with oily or sensitive skin can also use them and never worry about degrading their skin condition. Coal colors are widely used in cosmetics; coal tar is seen as a human carcinogen and the main concern with each coal tar color (whether produced with coal tar or synthetic) can cause cancer 19. But the natural colors found in herbs are safer.

Extensive Options:

Natural cosmetics may still be a new genre in the beauty industry but they already offer a variety of beauty products to all who make crazy people to choose from. One will find a variety of foundation, eye shadow, lipstick, blush, mascara, concealer and much more all naturally made. In addition, one will find natural cosmetics made locally or those made by world-renowned designers. There are a large variety of herbal extracts, to name a few Andrographis paniculata (Kalmegh), Asparagus racemosus (Shatawari), Boswellia serrata (Salai Guggal), Asphalt (Shilajit) etc³⁷.

Fits your budget:

Natural cosmetics are less expensive. In fact, some of these products are far more affordable than they are. They are offered at discounted prices and are sold at a lower price at the time of sale. You just need to check enough to look for good deals. A WHO estimate shows that about 80 percent of the world's population depends on natural products for their health care, due to the side effects and the rising cost of modern medicine. The World Health Organization currently recommends and promotes traditional medicine treatments in natural health care systems as these drugs are readily available at low cost and relatively safe³⁸.

Not Tested on Animals:

Some cosmetics are first tested on animals to make sure they are safe and effective for human use. However, natural cosmetics do not need to be tested on animals. This design is tested by laboratory experts using state-of-the-art equipment other than the animals involved.

No Side Effects:

Artificial beauty products can irritate your skin, and cause acne. They may clog your pores and make your skin dry or oily. With natural cosmetics, one should not worry about these. The natural ingredients used do not guarantee side effects; one can use them anytime, anywhere. For example, herbal cosmetics do not contain parabens which are widely used in cosmetic storage and can penetrate the skin³⁹. It is also suspected of interfering with hormonal function (endocrine disruption).

Control Status:

The official difference between a cosmetic and a drug is determined by the products intended for use. Under the present concept, the limit on which a cosmetic product becomes a drug is not well defined and different rules and regulations apply to each type of product. Drugs and cosmetic Act 1940 defines medicine and cosmetics as; Medicine- “All medicines for internal or external use of a person or animal and all objects intended for use; or to diagnose, treat, reduce or prevent any disease or disorder in humans or animals ”.

Cosmetic - "Any article intended for anointing, pouring, spraying or spraying or applying to any part of the human body to cleanse, beautify, enhance the appearance or alter the look and include any article intended for use as part of cosmetics."⁴⁰. Some products meet your definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. This can happen if a product has more than one intended use. For example, shampoo is a cosmetic because its intended use is to cleanse the hair. An anti-dandruff shampoo is a drug because its use is intended to treat dandruff. Among the cosmetic / drug compounds are fluoride-based toothbrushes, non-sweating deodorants and cosmetics with sunscreen. Claims made about the drug are subject to a detailed review by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) review and approval process, but cosmetics are not subject to FDA mandatory reviews. Although there is no official category called cosmeceuticals, this name has received an application to place products on the border between cosmetics and medicines⁴¹.The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act does not recognize the name itself. It is also difficult for consumers to determine if 'claims' about the actions or effectiveness of cosmeceuticals are valid unless the product has been approved by the FDA or similar agency. Some countries have product categories that fall between the two categories of cosmetics and drugs: for example, Japan has „Quasi-drugs‟; Thailand has 'controlled cosmetics' and Hong Kong has 'cosmetic drugs'. Regulations for cosmeceuticals have not been compiled between the USA, Europe, Asian and other countries⁴².

Lips Disorders^43-47:

Inflammation:

Allergies can cause lips to swell. The reaction may be caused by sensitivity to certain foods or drinks, drugs, lipstick, or irritants. When the cause can be found and eliminated, the lips usually return to normal but often the cause of the inflammation remains a mystery. A condition called hereditary angioedema may cause recurrent inflammation. Non-genetic conditions such as erythema multiforme, sunburn, cold and dry weather, or trauma may cause the lips to swell.

Sun damage:

Sun damage can make the lips, especially the lower lip, hard and dry. Red spots or white film appearance damage increases the risk of subsequent cancer. This type of damage can be minimized by covering the lips with a lip balm containing sunscreen or with to protect the face from the harmful rays of the Sun with a wide-brimmed hat. Inflammation: with inflammation of the lips (Cheilitis) the corners of the mouth may become painful, irritated, red, cracked, and scaly. Cheilitis may be the result of a deficiency of vitamin B12 in the diet.

Color change:

Freckles and abnormally dark brown areas (melatonin macules) are common on the lips and can last for many years. These marks do not cause anxiety. Multiple spots, small, scattered brown can be a sign of a genetic disease called peutz - jeghers syndrome, in which polyps form in the stomach and intestines. Kawasaki Disease, an undiagnosed disease that commonly occurs in children and children 8 years of age or younger, can cause dryness and cracking of the lips and redness of the oral mucosa.

Sores:

A raised area or ulcer with strong edges on the lips may be a form of skin cancer. Some sores may be symptoms of others. Medical conditions, such as herpes simplex infection or syphilis, others, such as keratoacanthoma, have no known cause.

Types of lipstick^47-50:

· According to consensus, solid lipstick is given in the form of lipstick stick, lipstick pencil, lipstick cream and liquid lipstick. Depending on the size of the second work, lipsticks are classified as;

· Soft lipstick: Contains a wide range of moisturizing ingredients and most contains SPF, which protects against Ultrasound radiation.

· Nutritive Lipstick: This type of lipstick is ideal for winter because it protects the lips from the cold.

· Lipstick Hygiene or lipstick treatment: It softens soft skin on the lips, heals cracks, prevents herpes, and gives a soft, natural glow.

· Lipstick flavor.

· Waterproof Lipstick - It is a water-resistant substance, which allows the lipstick to stay out of contact. Depending on the color, the lips;

· Colorless lipstick.

· Neutral colored lipstick.

· Brightly colored lipstick.

· Depending on the amount of makeup, lipstick is available;

· Mattel has gloss and glitter as well as great consistency.

· Satin is semi-opaque, has a thin sheen color, is beautiful in color and texture is slightly silky.

· Cultivated cream is creamy, light, light-colored and very creamy.

· Cremensheen is a cream base, watery, medium to high color and anhydrous texture is very silky.

· Snow is a lipstick with a layer of shiny particles, often called gloss.

· Luster is semi-glossy, with minimal pigmentation and wet texture, similar to gloss but not harsh.

· Dazzles with gloss and glitter and great harmony.

· The glaze is light, bright, and light in color.

· Depending on how many special features, lipsticks;

· Long-lasting lipstick - Stands for 8 to 24 hours.

The basic production process of lipstick^{24 -26}:

The composition of herbal lipstick involves a basic production process such as;

Pigment pre-milling:

The first step involved in the formation of herbal lipstick is pigment pre-milling when the agglomerates in the powder are broken to give a smooth and even color to the lipstick.

Melting and mixing:

The next step involves the melting and mixing phase, as solid wax at room temperature cannot be mixed with other ingredients to make this process easier as the waxes are melting. It can usually be mixed with oil and melted on a melted base, pigment and other additives are added and mixed to make the same product.

Modeling:

The formulation is a real step when the melted lipstick is poured on a metal or plastic skin, the mixture is poured while hot but it is beneficial for firmness, and then removed from the mole with minimal pressure.

Burning:

Burning is the last step when the lipstick passes through the flames, often caught and twisted

· The flame for a moment and then removed to avoid melting and loss of shape to achieve a glossy finish, and

· Then placed in containers.

CONCLUSION:

In the last few decades, there has been a significant improvement in the use of cosmetics by women. However, the dangers posed by these chemicals have only recently become apparent. Consumers can take the safe and effective benefits of herbal lipsticks after careful care clinical trials. Compared with other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safer to use. Synthetic coloring agents can cause allergies and be found to have cancer. The ability to crave the right makeup for you depends on accurate knowledge of the ingredient, Prakriti body testing, personal requirements, customer perception of the product, and product standing. The quality control and efficiency of herbal cosmetic products are very important. Therefore quality control tests should be performed with herbal cosmetics. It is thought to be safe for a long time.

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Received on 30.11.2021 Modified on 02.02.2022

Res. J. Pharmacognosy and Phytochem. 2022; 14(2):113-118.

DOI: 10.52711/0975-4385.2022.00021